Another “themed” Chef’s Table event. This one – course by course – takes us from ground offerings to the leaves and flowers.
Also as with the last Chef’s Table the menu is delightfully presented.
The meal started off with Chef’s country loaf bread with a butter infused with chimichuri.
“Roots”
Potato Gaufrette with beet whipped feta mousse and pickled carrot and ginger
Comment: Everything on the plate is grown underground– well close. The greenery doesn’t fit the category
Campo Macciane Moonlight Chardonnay, Toscana, Italy
“Bark and Trunk”
Parsnip Soup with Maple Cinnamon Crema and Porcini Mushroom Dust
Comment: Parsnip looks like a tree trunk. Cinnamon is bark, Maple Syrup extracted from the trunk, Some Mushrooms grow on the trunk (dead trunk).
Paired with Cantine Minini Audax Pinot Noir, Veneto, Italy
“The Birds and Bees”
Sous Vide Duck Breast with crispy Duck ConfitCaramelized Honey Juniper Glazed Carrots,Star Anise Espagnole, Mushroom Risotto
Comment: Circulated a container of Star Anise. The Espagnole is a French sauce made with beef or dark stock – used the bones from the duck confit thickened with potato flour. Sous vide (the duck breast) vacuum sealed and poached and roasted to crisp.
Paired with Humberto Canale Black River Malbec, Patagonia, Argentina
“Leaves and Flowers”
Lavendar Creme Caramel, Basil Rosewater Fool, Orchid and Red Sorrel
Paired with Amalaya Torrontes Riesling, Salta, Argentina
Another sold out Chef’s Table event. And the highlight – the peach. Every dish incorporates this exquisite fruit.
Great menu presentation – tantalizing creations. Kyle, of course, was the centre of the action. But a toast to Hannah for her super service, Emily for the wine offerings and the centrepieces and Alex for assisting in the plating.
Emily and Hannah
The peaches were sourced from Niagara – Lakelee Orchards in Jordan Station. One is the Golden Peach. It holds its shape better when cooking. The centrepieces used the same peach varietals.
Kyle graciously introduced the Wining at the Bend website that includes summaries of Chef’s Tables back to 2017. A link will be sent out with an email for those not yet subscribing.
Also, Kyle mentioned that he is exploring offering cooking classes from the Dorchester arena. Look forward to this taking shape.
It was also noted that the dining room was chosen rather than the library because the space allowed plating to be front and centre for anyone who wanted to go and watch.
A final demonstration was the pitting of the peaches using a CLEAN pair of needle nose pliers – a lot faster and impresses the guests.
Bread and Butter
This has become a great start to the dinners. This bread was particularly unique. Kyle explained that he was experimenting with “inclusions”. In this case it was peach incorporated in the bread dough using a kind of a spiral. What better to up the ante than a peach basil compound butter.
Amuse Bouche
Peach raspberry shooter with chili marinated cucumber. Exotic flavours. Fresh peach, a little honey, little salt. And creative “plating”. Miniature Mason jars from the Dollar Store.
Wine Pairing
Rinaldi Martini d’Asti Pimonte, Italy
The wine had a pleasant sparkle and really worked with the spicy sweetness of the dish.
Appetizer
The appetizer salad was made with frisee greens, lightly pickled peaches, ricotta cheese. The dressing was 18 year old balsamic vinegar, olive oil, smoked sea salt, black peppercorn and pecan praline.
Wine Pairing
Te Mania Sauvignon Blanc Nelson, New Zealand.
A nice complement to the richness of the ricotta and the dressing.
Entree
Sous-vide pork loin roast with sweet and sour dried cherry peach chutney, caramelized peach au jus, herbed Israeli couscous, orange glazed golden beets.
The sous-vide process is similar to poaching. The pork was then put in the oven for 15 minutes or so to brown the outside a little. The au jus also had roasted peached blended in, thickening it.
Wine Pairing
Chateau La Fleur Merlot Bordeaux, France
Tasting notes on this wine – lush, black currant and black cherry.
Dessert
Cobbler – peach, brown butter. Chinese 5 spice streusel, butter pecan ice cream (from the Kawartha dairy) and Biscoff (Belgian cinnamon cookies added to sauce) caramel sauce
Pairing
Tawse Chardonnay Bellini cocktail
And the rest of the event…
Just chatting and packing up leftovers. Can’t waste any of these delicious offerings. Looking forward to the next dinner.
As on the last Black Box Chef’s Table occasion the meal was created from ingredients revealed on the day of the event (the secret “shopping” expedition by sous chef, Nathan Grindstaff), supplemented by in-house staples.
Chef Kyle commented that the Black Box is his favourite version of Chef’s Table. He doesn’t have to think too hard ahead of time, just has to wing it. Kyle took the time though to do a chart setting out each course – the finished product and the ingredients.
We certainly had the opportunity to taste some very unique offerings. And what a great team of servers to enhance the experience. And plating the meal in front of us was enlightening.
Bread and Butter
The bread for this course was made from a caraway rye flour, complemented by bee pollen in the butter.
Amuse Bouche
This was a potato tarragon fritter with black truffle aioli. Tarragon was in the fritter and sunflower oil was used to make the aioli. Black truffles were chopped up inside the fritter. The truffles were quite mild and Chef Kyle indicated he was pleased with that because he didn’t want the flavours to be overwhelming.
Wine Pairing
Bougrier Vouvray Chenin Blanc from Loire France.
Appetizer
Next up was an appetizer salad – a myriad of unique ingredients and flavours. Starting with the base of baby spinach and finishing with a dressing of lime cordial, pink peppercorns, sea buckthorn berries (tart) and sunflower oil. Also in the salad – spiced cashews, pickled rhubarb and handeck cheese from Gun’s Hill (typical Swiss Mountain style cheese).
Wine Pairing
Lungarotti Torre Di Giano Bianco Umbria Italy (a very understated wine – I much preferred the Vouvray)
Entree
The ribs were smoked a little and then braised. Finished ribs were like a pastrami and enriched by chanterelle mushrooms, prosciutto and spinach aioli and black truffles. Onion sprouts topped the dish.
Kyle was asked to describe the difference between pastrami and corned beef. Apparently pastrami is smoked and corned beef is poached in a pickle brine.
Wine Pairing
Terranoble Carmenere, Casablanca Valley, Chile (good pairing with the beef)
Dessert
Coffee pot de crême with milk chocolate and Kirsch Cherry Fool. Black box ingredients were milk chocolate, coffee grounds and Kirsch. Kyle commented that this dessert is like a crême brûlée without the brûlée part.
Menu curated by Chef Kyle Nichol using only Canadian ingredients. The theme obviously reflects the current somewhat chaotic environment. Kyle’s exploration of local, and Canadian, products and sources was enlightening. He generously provided information on how to source the components of the menu dishes.
Take a look at his Facebook post on this event. Amazing pictures.
Bread
House made, of course, but not super store flour. Kyle sources his flour from the Arva Flour Mill north of London. It is the oldest commercial flour mill in Canada – since 1819. There is an onsite store. Less accessible is the butter from Mr. Amish. Strathroy. This one is sea salted.
Amuse-Bouche
Steelhead Smoked Trout Salad with Kozlik’s Mustard with PEI Potato Gaufrette and Sleger’s Sprouts
Den Beston Trout farm in Ontario farms the trout. It is smoked by Steelhead in St. Thomas. (Steelhead has a wide range of seafood and is open to individual customers – at the moment Monday is “seniors day”)
Sprouts are from Sleger’s in Strathroy – just trim as needed.
The mustard is also sourced locally.
Appetizer
Cookstown Carrot Soup with Local Yogurt Creme Fraiche and Baby Leeks Duo
The yogurt and the cream comes from Hewitt’s in Hagersville but available at Remark.
The carrots were roasted and steamed in a special oven called combi therm.
Entree
AAA Braised Short Rib of Beef with Ontario Pork Sausage and Bean Cassoulet, Sunchoke Puree and Manitoba Sea Buckthorn Au Jus
The beef came from Woodward Meats in Oakville. Sourced exclusively from Ontario farms and farms that grow the feed for the animals. Sometimes they have lamb from New Zealand but beef and pork if more is needed it is sourced from other Canadian farmers.
The cassoulet is made from Romano beans grown in the prairies. The sun choke is a Jerusalem artichoke, a root vegetable, that comes from Cookstown – the same Bradbury farm that sourced the carrots. Again Sleeger’s sprouts.
The wine pairing with this course was Sandhill Syrah from the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia. This wine was also used in the braise.
Dessert
Nanaimo Tart with Toasted Coconut Custard, Rheo Thompson Chocolate Ganache, Chocolate Shortbread Streusel
The custard was made with Hewitt’s cream and eggs from Conestoga Farms (available at Remark). Free range chickens. Deep yellow yolk. Mr. Amish butter. The chocolate came from a candy shop in Stratford.
The all butter shortbread shell came from a bakery in Quebec.
Local/Canadian Products
Arva flour
Mr. Amish butter
Hewitt’s cream and goat yogurt
Cold press canola oil – if available – otherwise unrefined sunflower oil
Apple cider vinegar – Filsinger’s Organic or Wellesley Apple Cider
Eggs – Conestoga Farms
Rheo Thompson Candies
Riverbend honey
Wine Pairing
From coast to coast
Braised short ribs pairing – Sandill Syrah (Okanagan Valley, British Columbia),
The concept of the “black box” was the inspiration for July’s Chef’s Table. The chef (Kyle Nichol – Executive Chef) was challenged to create a dinner (for 21 people) from a set of ingredients that Kyle was introduced to the morning of the event.
Nate (Nathan Grindstaff, sous chef) undertook the major, secretive “shopping” expedition. He visited local markets and grocery stores looking for options. The product was to be representative of the Ontario summer. Nate joked about the effort of carrying all of the bags. Interesting that some product like the lamb posed availability problems to get the quantity necessary for the occasion. Super Store coincidentally had an organic Ontario lamb offering – the main course. Smith Cheese at Covent Garden Market was the source for the crème fraiche and a variety of goat cheeses. Nate included truffle chips and waffle cones that he thought would really challenge Kyle’s creativity.
Aside: Nate expressed reservations about a rematch with Kyle doing the shopping and Nate figuring out what to deliver to the patrons.
Bread & Butter
Herbs de Provence Foccacia (made in house using lavender and herbs like rosemary and oregano – recipe on YouTube) with Torpedo Onion Butter. Whole torpedo onions were part of the “black box” and the greens were chopped into the butter.
Soup (Amous Bouche)
Sweet corn, mushrooms and double smoked bacon chowder with roasted chestnut, queso fresco (Queso fresco is a Mexican cheese whose name literally means “fresh cheese.”) and truffled potato chips perched on top.
Paired with William Wright Chardonnay, California. Not a typical California Chardonnay to my taste but acidic and cut the fat of the soup.
Salad (Appetizer)
Baby Romaine lettuce with fresh mozzarella, grilled tops of the torpedo onions, yellow tomatoes, kohlrabi, red current and balsamic vinaigrette and basil croutons.
Paired with Te Mania Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand
Main (Entree)
Oven roasted rack of lamb, crispy yellow potatoes, garlic scapes, asparagus. Jus was boosted by mint jelly and peach salsa.
Paired with Cantine Minini Audax Pinot Noir Italy.
Interesting – Pinot not all that well known from Italy.
Dessert
Black cherry and strawberry shortcake with biscuit and creme fraiche chantilly. Waffle cones were broken up into praline chips.
Paired with Due la Deu Monção e Melgaço— Alvarinho — Vinho Verde
Francesinha
Ham, sausage and roast beef, toasted white loaf, quetjo Flamengo molho de francesinha
Paired with Super Bock — Portugal
Feijoda
Vegetarian stew with beans, onions, tomatoes, turnip, potato, kale & cabbage
Paired with Castello d’Alba—Douro
Bacalhau & Alentejo Porco Preto
Salted cod with potatoes, onions, tomatoes, olives, garlic & olive oil with grilled black pork marinated in flavours present throughout the Alentejo region of Portugal
Paired with Quinta do Espirito Santo—Lisboa
Pastel de Nata Duo
Traditional nata with lemon & cinnamon Port flavoured nata
Another creative theme! And samples of varieties of honey. As well as some insight into the state of the bee population, the impact of habitat and plants/flowers on flavour and colour. Including how bee pollen is collected!
The dishes were uniquely flavoured despite “honey” being a key ingredient in all of them.
The wine pairings worked well.
Bread and Butter
Buckwheat Honey Oat Bread with Bee Pollen Compound Butter
Amuse Bouche
Honey Caramelized Shallot Arancini with Honey Chili Aioli
Paired with Fantini Gran Cuvée Rosé (Abruzzo, Italy)
Starter
Honey Roasted Acorn Squash Soup with Hazelnut Thyme Crumble and Saffron Honey Crema
Paired with Pedroncelli Frank Johnson Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma County, California)
Main Course
Sticky Honey Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Sage Potato Galette, Honey Dijon Broccolini, Buckwheat Honey Apple Onion Chutney, Honey Glazed Apple Chip
Paired with Minini ‘Audax’ Pinot Noir (Venezia, Veneto, Northern Italy)
Another opportunity to enjoy eclectic cuisine and sip on paired wines. Chef Kyle came up with a very creative A, B, C and D menu. Take note of the starting letter of most of the words describing each course.
Chef Kyle indicated that the next Chef’s Table will be in July.
Housemade bread
With Canadian Sea Salted Butter (with a seasonal addition of ramps – wild leeks that are available only for a couple of weeks in the spring – grabbed up quickly by those in the know)
This event was a four course dinner with wine pairings – wines introduced by Ed Haddon, sommelier from Foreign Affair Winery, and food courses described by Chef Ben – apologies, no last name!
The evening was thoroughly enjoyable.
Over the course of the tasting Ed shared information on Italian style wines – appassimento, ripasso and recioto (sweet wine).
Appassimento technique – talked about Amarone and the drying of the grapes prior to making the wine. How to keep the grapes from rotting while drying – the first attempt at Foreign Affair was harvested too slowly, handled too much and piled up when stored. It all rotted. Today plastic trays go to the vineyard, grapes are hand harvested to these trays in a single layer and the trays are taken to drying sheds. No-one touches the grapes after picking, fans keep the air circulating in the drying sheds. White grapes dry a month to 6 weeks. Big red grape varietals may dry for a year.
Ripasso wine is “a poor man’s Amarone”. The skins from the appassimento wine are added to a fermentation of less robust grapes.
1st Course – Amuse-bouche
Crostini topped with bacon jam, cranberry, brie and a sorrel leaf – delicious combination of flavours – kind of lemony, super vibrant.
Accompanied by 2018 Conspiracy Bianco – $17.95 – a riesling, nice and fresh.
80% reisling and 20% sauvignon blanc. The skins came from the sauvignon blanc appasimento.
2nd Course – Appetizer
Seasonal soup – carrot, ginger, parship, spice (perfect for the early snow and cold)
Two wines – the first a 2017 Unoaked Chardonnay – 10% appasimento – remaining wine fermented in stainless steel tanks – $23.95 – acidic, lean – nicely cut through the richness of the soup – the second a 2018 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay – $26.95 – (10% appassimento with 1 month of drying time, remaining wine aged 9 months in French oak barrels) stood up to the intensity of the soup.
A complement wine – equal weight as the food – would be the oaked chardonnay with the rich soup. A foil wine is a contrast and can also work well. The unoaked chardonnay is more acidic and instead of matching it cuts the richness of the soup.
3rd Course – Entree
Pork tenderloin, prosciutto, squash risotto, maple bourbon demi glace.
Two wines – both Bordeaux varietals – the first the 2017 Conspiracy -$23.95 – (made ripasso style – skins and lees of the appassimento red grapes) – still making this wine in April – the second the 2016 Dream – $29.95 – (partial appassimento – a Bordeaux style blend – merlot cabernet franc, petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon). No two years are the same varietals or proportions. Base the blend on the strengths and weaknesses of the varietals in the year the wine is being blended.
Both wines paired well with the pork but the Dream was a more complex, interesting wine.
Interesting to see the difference in the glasses between the white wine and red wine offerings. Ed suggested we try a little red in the white wine glass and compare with the same wine in the red wine glass.
4th Course – Dessert
Butter tart – fig, pecan, maple, bourbon, dulce de leche, spice
2016 Marisa (Recioto style) – $49.95 – riesling grapes set aside to dry for 70 days. Fermentation is stopped when the desired sweetness and acidity is reached. Not as sweet as ice wine. Great pairing with this tart.
